Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
